Eggy Crumpets

October is tomorrow and I have no idea where it came from. Did summer even actually happen? I seem to recall a brief 3-day vacation to Boston and the occasional blistering hot and hazy day but all in all it’s as if rainy spring days slipped into fall leaving rarely any room for interruption. Although, it is hard to complain when nearly every day these past 3-weeks has brought crisp and dry air, deep blue skies, cooler temperatures and warming suns. Perhaps summer could have been more, well, summer-y, but I’ll welcome fall any day.

I’ve actually recently wondered why springtime is representative of new beginnings and youth when it’s the fall that seems to reawaken the child in me and makes me feel alive after drowning in the heat of summer. Fall is early mornings waiting for the bus on the first day of school, cross country invitationals, homecoming dances and high school football. It’s the 4 months I spent in London and England, meandering about tiny village streets amongst crimson leaves and golden beams of sunlight. It’s the whiff of that sweet, rich smoky smell that permeates the country air. And of course it is my most favorite of all foods.

My forays into the world of food and cooking began in my mid to late teen years and I was naturally attracted to fall foods and flavors. Most vividly I remember my friends and I coming back to my house to after a homecoming dance. My mom had prepared a monstrous spread of fall treats to satiate our post-dancing appetites. There were sliced honeycrisp apples and caramel dip, crackers with hunks of cheddar and smoked gouda, slices of baguette, apple butter and cold grapes, and bottles of sparking cider. I was just in awe of the amazing variety of complex flavors that existed amongst these foods and it was at this point where my interest began to turn into a passion.

A few years later I studied abroad in London in the fall of my junior year at college. I was living in an apartment and cooking for myself for the first time and I definitely took advantage of this newfound ability. I went to markets every weekend and cooked very elaborate dinners, all very much sticking to the seasonal fall theme. For breakfast, however, I kept things much simpler. The mornings held early classes and weekend excursions, leaving little room for elaborate breakfasts. Luckily, I was never in short supply of a loaf of phenomenal bread from local bakers and so that made up the grand majority of my breakfasts. But one morning before a 3-day weekend trip, I was out of all groceries and the only option was a forgotten package of crumpets in the corner of the cupboard. I was skeptical of the texture, having read that an undercooked crumpet is not too far from a round disk of rubber. But, I let it hang out in the toaster until golden, spread over a thick layer of butter and jam and took a bite into the most pleasantly surprising foods I’ve tried. The texture is crispy yet custardy and each of the little holes fills with butter, gushing out with each chew. They are definitely made for comfort on for cold-weather mornings.

I spent the next few years at home dreaming about those crumpets but unable to find them until I discovered them at by nearby Wegmans. I ate the crumpets in the traditional manner, toasted with butter, but later started looking for alternative ways to prepare them. I soon came across a recipe for eggy crumpets by none other and the great Jamie Oliver. He takes the crumpet and gives it the French toast treatment, dipping it in a mixture of eggs and spices and frying it in a buttery skillet. He pairs it with the classic fixings of maple syrup and bacon but I decided to take the crumpet and make it a little more savory. I spread some goat cheese over each crumpet and topped them with roasted cherry tomatoes, sautéed kale, and flaky sea salt. The acidity of the tomatoes cuts through the richness of the eggs and cheese and the earthy kale just balances everything out. It’s the perfect indulgence on a beginning-of-fall afternoon, made with the last of the summer cherry tomatoes and perhaps paired with a chilled glass of cider. It’s a dish you’ll return to with nostalgia year after year.

Eggy Crumpets with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
Adapted from Jamie Oliver
Serves 1

Ingredients
2 crumpets
1 egg, beaten
a pinch of smoked paprika
a pinch of red pepper flakes
salt and pepper, to taste
a pat of butter
½ cup cherry tomatoes
olive oil
2 leaves of kale, stripped from the stem and torn into pieces
goat cheese

*Please note, I realize that the ingredients aren’t very precise but go by your instincts when seasoning and assembling. If you like more spice, add more. If you like lots of tomatoes and tons of goat cheese, by all means use as much as you like and vice versa.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Tip your tomatoes into a small roasting dish and lightly coat them with a drizzle of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes, shaking them around in the dish occasionally, until shriveled and slightly blistered.

While the tomatoes roast, prepare the crumpets. Beat the egg in a wide shallow dish and add the paprika, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Add the crumpets, flipping several times to coat and letting them soak for about 5 minutes. Heat up a skillet on medium heat and add a pat of butter. Once hot, place the crumpets in the skillet (I recommend setting them in the pan so that the holes are initially facing up. That way you can pour any extra egg into the holes. Flip the crumpets to cook the other side and cook until they are golden and cooked throughout. You can add the kale to the pan alongside the crumpets a sauté for a few minutes until crisp tender.

Spread some goat cheese overtop each crumpet and top with the roasted tomatoes and some of their juices. Serve with the kale on the side and sprinkle with flaky sea salt over all.

Wicked Feta

Among those who live in the D.C/Metro area, the lucky ones are aware of the wonder that is Cava Grill. Haven’t heard of it? Let me enlighten you. Think of the concept of chipotle, replace the Mexican theme with Greek food, pile all of these delicious Greek dips and spreads, meats, and vegetable toppings into a bowl of saffron basmati rice instead of a tortilla and that’s the short version of the story. But it’s the small, amazing details that have made Cava my go-to lunch spot every single Saturday (and probably much more often that that if I were a person of lesser self-control). To start, they are very transparent about the ingredients that they use, something that let me see that they barely use any soy protein/oil in their food, a pretty big deal for me since I have a soy allergy. The food is also incredibly fresh. A sign by the entrance lists the local farms where the meat came from, the vegetables are bight and vibrant, and nothing ever tastes artificial or overly-seasoned. It’s the only “fast-food” spot that I leave feeling really good about what I just ate.

One of the defining features of Cava are their dips and spreads that they dollop onto their “bowls” and also sell in nearby grocery stores. They include things like hummus, harissa, tzatziki, and baba ghannoush but they’re most famous dip is a little something they call Crazy Feta. It’s a concoction of feta, jalapeno, onion, and olive oil all mashed up into a spicy, salty, and chunky dip. I did buy it at the grocery store once, forking over a little more that I really wanted to for a teeny little tub of the dip. It was delicious, as always, but I was thinking there had to be a way to make this on my own, hopefully saving a couple bucks in the process. So with a little research and a couple tweaks, I have created Wicked Feta, my silkier and smoother version of the crazy variety.

The one thing that I am not crazy about with the real Crazy Feta are the chunks of raw onion in the mix. That’s why I like roasted garlic instead for that pungent savoriness without the harsh tanginess of the onion. I also decided to whip the feta rather than mashing it to maximize its ability for easy spreading and dipping and just for the simple pleasure of the creamy texture that comes with it. The garlic is sweet and subtle, the cream cheese rounds out some of the tang of the feta, lemon juice brightens the whole thing up, and there is just enough roasted jalapeno to leave a lingering backdrop of heat in the mouth.

I like to think of this more as a condiment rather than just a veggie dip too, though it would of course be great alongside some hummus with a selection of fresh vegetables and pita chips. But there are so many other things to do with it. Imagine spreading a thick layer overtop a juicy lamb burger, or dolloping spoonfuls over some roasted cauliflower. You could make a tartine with some thick crusty spread, a layer of the spread, and wedges of marinated tomatoes or mix it with some cooked Italian sausage and onions, stuff the mixture into some cremini mushrooms and broil until bubbling. Sorry Cava, but I think that your craziest of feta cheeses just got a whole lot more wicked.

Wicked Feta
Adapted from this recipe

Ingredients
8 oz. feta cheese
3 oz. cream cheese
1 bulb of garlic
2 jalapeno peppers
Juice and zest of half a lemon
2 Tbs. olive oil
black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the top off of the bulb of garlic and rub the top with olive oil. Wrap up in aluminum foil or parchment paper and place on a baking tray. Place in the oven to roast for 30 minutes. When you have 10 more minutes remaining, coat the jalapeno peppers in olive oil and place the on the baking sheet alongside the garlic. Turn them every few minutes so they char evenly. Remove and let cool for a few minutes.

While the garlic roasts, add the feta to a food processor and pulse a few times to break it up. Add the cream cheese and let the food processor run for a couple minutes until creamy and smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl occasionally so everything mixes evenly. Once smooth, add the olive oil and lemon juice/zest and let the machine run for another 15 seconds. Pop out four of the garlic cloves from the garlic bulb and add them to the feta mixture and mix until well incorporated. Save the rest of the garlic for another time. Cut the jalapenos in half lengthwise and remove the seeds and membrane. Depending on how hot you like things, add the jalapenos accordingly. I used about 1½ jalapenos for my dip and it has a mild-medium heat. Chop them coarsely and add to the food processor along with fresh cracked black pepper to taste. Pulse a few times until well mixed.

Transfer to a bowl and let chill for at least an hour before serving to firm up. If serving as a crudité dip, add a little drizzle of olive oil and pepper overtop.

Eating My Way Through Boston - Vacation 2013

Two weeks ago my mom and I took our much-anticipated mini-vacation to Boston to visit my sister. I couldn’t believe that it was my first visit in three years, especially when it was so easy to pick up right where I left off. Though I had only been there for a handful of short stays before, the streets somehow seemed so familiar. Perhaps that’s what so magical about the city; it’s small and cozy enough to return to with a sense of acquaintance but big enough that there’s always something new to discover. And this past trip was certainly a brand new adventure filled with lots of excellent food, beautiful sights, and maybe a little to much sunshine along the way.

The first day there, my mom and I spent the afternoon meandering around the city, window shopping on Newbury Street and strolling though the park. We also stopped at the Copley Square Farmers Market, admiring the bounty of fruits and vegetables amongst stacks of beautiful artisanal bread and seas of mini sunflower bouquets. We then met up with my sister in Cambridge for what ended up being an incredibly memorable and unique meal at

OleanaRestaurant

. I’ve actually been on a bit of an Eastern Mediterranean food kick for a while so this definitely fed that frenzy. Their menu is mostly based on small plates and sharing so we settled with three mezes, two main courses, and two desserts to split between the three of us. 

We started with drinks. I got a cocktail that they called the Paopao. It was described as “sweet, tart, and bubbly” on the menu. I’m still actually not sure what it was but it tasted like strawberry lemonade mixed with champagne, which is definitely a good thing. We had a big basket of bread too (baguette, these sweet sesame breadsticks, and another sweet, dense brown bread) with the a fruity and complex olive oil.

Our first meze was spinach falafel with beet tzatziki, tahini, and a thin bread wrapping. The falafel was done perfectly; it was crispy on the outside and warm and tender on the inside. 

Next was the Sfela Cheese Saganaki (i.e. a baked gratin of briny, salty, cheese) with sesame, tomato, fig, and ouzo. Definitely the most unique but a unanimously decided favorite. 

The third meze were bread and cheese dumplings with nigella seeds and a tomato saffron soup. The dumplings were tender and the soup was perfect for dipping our last pieces of bread into. 

The main courses were amazing as well. My favorite dish of the night was the incredibly moist and crispy flattened lemon chicken, coated with za’atar and served over a pancake (which reminded me of a thicker filo) filled with a Turkish cheese filling. 

The other main was a wild salmon filet with squash, tomato, challah bread and a poached egg. 

Since we were also simultaneous celebrating my mom’s and my birthday, the two of us picked which dessert we wanted most. My mom chose an elaborate assembly of chocolate flavored components with hazelnuts and fig leaf ice cream. I went for the baked Alaska, a coconut macaroon topped with coconut ice cream, coated in meringue, which was then torched and drizzled with passion fruit caramel sauce. I ate almost the whole thing on my own. No regrets.

Despite our slightly lingering feeling of fullness the next morning, we still managed to start the day out with a great deal of food. It was vacation after all. My mom, my sister, her boyfriend and I were headed to Chatham, Cape Cod for a day at the beach and we needed provisions. We picked up breakfast and lunch at Boston’s famous Flour Bakery, owned by Joanne Chang. Based upon my very successful results with the Flour Bakery Cookbook, I was expecting a lot from the bakery and it certainly lived up to those. Breakfast was a Craquelin, brioche baked with candied orange peel and topped with caramelized almond slices. We also got sandwiches for lunch later. I got the lamb sandwich with tomato chutney, goat cheese, and arugula on sourdough – amazing – and we picked up some chocolate chip cookies for dessert. Let me just say, the search for the best chocolate chip cookie is officially over. You can find them at Flour. 

The beach was absolutely wonderful and after about 6 hours of seaside time (which was enough to produce one of my worst sunburns to date), we somehow were ready for dinner. We stopped by a gorgeous hotel first for some drinks and to enjoy the view (so many hydrangeas!) and then went to a teeny little seafood shack, right next to the loading docks, for the freshest seafood out there. I had an enormous lobster roll, so light and fresh, with just a little bit of mayo, celery, lemon, and paprika, along with excellent fries and everyone else went for the amazing haddock fish ‘n chips. We ate with our food propped up on the dock railing, throwing fries to obliging seagulls and watching as the seals put on a show for us below. Oh, and there may have been ice cream involved afterwards...

We ended our trip on Sunday with a great brunch at Area Four in Cambridge. I had the best egg and cheese sandwich possible with housemade sausage and English muffin and a very unique Italian-style chopped salad topped with fontina, salami, pickled banana peppers, radicchio, green beans and other interesting things that seemed odd at first but really came together wonderfully. I’ve actually been working of recreating this at home so hopefully a recipe post on that will appear soon. Our trip could not be complete without another chocolate chip cookie run, obviously, and before we knew it, we were heading back to the airport, out palates happy, our culinary minds expanded, and our pants perhaps a good bit tighter. So, until next time Boston! Cant wait to find out what you’ll feed me in the future!

Kinfolk Butcher Block Party - Pig Butchery Edition

This past Sunday I had the enormous pleasure of attending one of the Butcher Block Party events put on by Kinfolk Magazine as a part of their series of themed workshops held all over the world.  Through the months of June and July, workshops taught attendees the art of butchery and the methods that go into taking a fish, lamb, or pig, for instance, and breaking it into ready-to-cook cuts of meat. It also just so happened that they chose the small city of Charlottesville, VA (about a 2.5 hour drive away from me) as the location for a pig butchery demonstration, and I naturally had a hard time resisting the temptation to buy a ticket for such a unique event. I eventually did, of course.

I arrived at Blenheim Vineyards, the location of the event, to find a spectacular view, beautiful blue skies, and a friendly and warm welcome from the hosts of the event, Hill and Holler, Beyond the Flavor (an amazing and beautiful Charlottesville-based food blog), and James Lum and Matt Greene, the gentlemen behind JM Stock Provisions (a soon-to-be butcher shop in Charlottesville) and our butchery instructors for the day. So, I settled in with a glass of rosé and prepared for what turned out to be one of the most informative and in-depth lessons in food I’ve ever received. And to top it all off, the day did not end at the lesson itself. After the butchery demonstration, we headed outside to grill up the just-cut meat and some sausages made earlier that day with the other half of the same pig we cut up, and to enjoy a platter of James and Matt’s prosciutto, pate, and rillettes with fresh baguette.

Now, I’m not going to go into too extreme of detail about specific cuts of meat and word-by-word accounts of the lesson. You will actually see that on Beyond the Flavor's blog fairly soon. I’d rather just let the pictures do the talking. But I will give you just a few insights as to what I took away from the whole day.

The most important lesson is the sheer importance of buying meat that is local, free-range, and humanely raised and slaughtered. A gentleman from the local farm, Timbercreek Farm, where our pig grew up was there to talk to us about their practices for raising pigs and the things that make their pork so superior to commercially produced pork. Basically what it comes down to is that when pigs are happy and foraging for their food instead of penned up and living on a constant diet of corn and other grains, their meat is going to be sweeter, more flavorful, and healthier for you. Perhaps all of this is common knowledge at this point but occasional reminders are always nice and I can attest to the fact that the meat that we ate was delicious beyond words.

Also, the class really served as an aha! moment for me. Back in my restaurant-serving days, we were expected to be familiar with different cuts of meat but no matter how many times I looked at diagrams of pigs and cows, mapping out the different cuts of meat, it never clicked. Now it does. Seeing the step-by-step process and observing as the enormous half-pig turned into chops, bacon, hams, and ribs, I could finally piece together the puzzle.

All of this information also came along with tips on seasoning, cooking methods, and how to turn a less commonly used part of the pig into a succulent meal. Throw in the lovely conversations I had with the butchers themselves and other attendees about our passions for food, cooking, and local sourcing, the excellent meal, of course, and the overall pleasant backdrop of the winery, and I’d say it was quite the way to spend an afternoon!

Swiss Chard Tart with Sesame Cracker Crust

So here we are, coming to the end of June, and just like last year my family an I have reached the stage of our gardening where we find ourselves in a bit of a leafy green crisis. We can literally scalp our rows of chard and lettuce and within the week they have grown back to full size. We start to run out of room in the refrigerator, out of storage containers, out of recipes. Though I suppose I can hardly justify complaining about an overabundance of homegrown vegetables. They are gorgeous and delicious and, most notably, absolutely free so we try our best to cram them into as many dishes as possible.

We have found a winner of a recipe in the recent Martha Stewart Living Food Issue Magazine, one that can rid the refrigerator of 1.5 pounds of greens in one fell swoop and is incredibly tasty at the same time. Now, a little side note, if you haven’t picked up this magazine yet, you really should. It has become a permanent fixture on the kitchen table and I discover something new to make every time I flip though it. It also has the recipe for this one-pot pasta, which has been making quite a few appearances in the foodie blogosphere lately. It may very well be the brainchild of someone with magical powers and is revolutionary in its approach to making a pot of pasta. Everything literally cooks together in one pot – you don’t even need a colander. It stands for all things cheap, easy and fabulous and will probably become a weekly thing once our cherry tomato plants begin to burden grace it with their bounty. But back to the recipe at hand…

This here is a Swiss chard tart with sesame cracker crust. To break it down its pretty much like taking the filling of spanakopita  (the recipe actually calls for all spinach but, well, we had Swiss chard so that’s what we used) and stuffing it into a tart shell that tastes like those little sesame cracker sticks in the packs of Asian-like trail mix. You know what I’m talking about, right? The pieces that everyone picks outs out of the mix first, leaving behind the stale nori crackers and wasabi peas.

You start by making the dough for the crust, which uses a dump and stir method and it comes together in seconds. It gets rolled out, placed into a tart pan, and baked until golden and crisp. The filling is mostly the greens but they get a salty punch from feta and some nice residual heat from red pepper flakes. And when the two come together and bake until piping hot, the result is simply lovely. The green surface is speckled with the bits of red, yellow, and orange stems of the chard and the scattering of white sesame seeds. The taste borders the line between light and fresh and something that is perhaps a little naughty with its rich, flaky crust. The crust holds up really well and actually stays quite crispy even after refrigerated and heated up again in the microwave. It’s a definite best contender for an easy lunch to bring to work the next day. Because of its richness, it pairs well with something a little more acidic. A pinot grigio would be nice but I had it with

Dogfish Head Festina Peche, a brewed malt beverage with a tart and tangy taste and a lingering wheat-like finish. All in all, with a slice of this tart at hand and a cold glass of your drink of choice, this is all I want out of an early summer evening supper.

Swiss Chard Tart with Sesame Cracker Crust
serves 4-6
slightly adapted from Martha Stewart Living Magazine

Ingredients
Crust
¾ cup whole wheat flour
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp coarse salt
t Tbs. sesame seeds
1/3 cup olive oil
1/3 cup water

Filling
1½ lbs swiss chard
1 Tbs olive oil
1 large shallot, finely diced
1 clove of garlic, minced
¼ tsp red pepper flakes
3 oz feta cheese
2 eggs, lightly beaten
½ tsp. coarse salt
½ tsp sesame seeds

Start by making the crust. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Combine the flours, salt and sesame seeds in large bowl and whisk to combine. Add in the olive oil and water and use a wooden spoon to mix together, finishing with your hands to knead it into a uniform ball. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface into a circle about 2 inches wider in diameter than your tart pan (use one with a removable bottom). Fit the dough into the pan, pressing it up the sides and trimming off any excess. Prick the bottom of the dough all over with a fork and bake for about 30 minutes and let cool slightly. Once cooked, reduce the oven to 350 degrees.

While the tart crust cooks, prepare the filling. Remove the green leaves from the chard and tear them into large pieces, saving the stems. Add the leaves to a large pot with ¼ cup of water and cover. Heat on medium, stirring periodically until the leaves are wilted. Transfer greens to a sieve placed over a bowl or sink to drain the excess water and set aside. Drain any water from your pan and place over a medium heat with 1Tbs. of oil. When hot, add the shallot, garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until the shallot is soft, about 4 minutes. Set aside.

When the chard leaves are cool enough to handle, place themin a clean towel and squeeze it over the sink to remove the extra water. Transfer to a cutting board and roughly chop. Add to a mixing bowl with the shallot mixture, crumbled feta, eggs, and salt. Stir to combine. Add the filling to the slightly cooled tart shell and evenly press it in. sprinkle the ½ tsp. of sesame seeds overtop. Bake in the 350-degree oven for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before slicing.